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News Fashion Weeks
The shifting mood at Copenhagen Fashion Week
venerdì, feb 11, 2011, 09:00 / Copenhagen, Denmark
Copenhagen Fashion Week is an important industry event, hosting some of the most sought-after names known well outside of Denmark – David Andersen, Barbara Í Gongini Stine Goya, and Henrik Vibskov, to name but a few. And while the catwalk reports and general mood in town remains optimistic, TribaSpace looks to the commercial side to consider the future marketplace of trade fairs in Copenhagen.
There was a joint press conference hold by Copenhagen International Fashion Fair, CPH Vision and industry association Dansk Fashion & Textile. That the powers were united is a signifying shift; with Berlin and Stockholm having their best seasons and attracting an increased number of buyers, Copenhagen needs to redefine itself in terms of the Scandinavian and global fashion agenda.
The press conference was an energetic kick off: Speakers Peter Fenger Selchau, Managing Director of CPH Vision and Terminal-2; Gallery C.E.O Christian Gregersen; Bella Center Sales and Marketing Director Jesper Åndahl, and Kasper Eis, Director of Dansk Fashion & Textile were invited to discuss Denmark’s place on the fashion map and this unique event’s part in raising valuable funds for a worthy cause.
Their vision goes far beyond organising shuttles, inviting and pampering top buyers (of which there were approximately sixty) and international press (around 20 attending journalists were writing for international publications). Instead, they plan to bring all the local trade fairs under one umbrella, both off and online by creating one united website, distinguishing Copenhagen as a platform of a united Scandinavia and market place for the region. Kasper Eis stated buyers should come to Copenhagen to experience Scandinavian fashion. But the question remains: who is paying? And can the vision of the city as a central place for the Scandinavian market become a reality?
Right now, it is hard to say. Financing of Copenhagen Fashion Week via the "Branding Denmark" initiative has come to the end, as the cooperation agreement expires this year and would will unlikely be renewed. Kasper Eis’s idea was to involve companies exhibiting with financing and providing increased support. There were a total of 2400 participants at all four fairs this time, which is a good number to start with. However why should anyone pay a premium to be at a marketplace that works for some and not necessarily for others?
Sponsorship might be a solution – the Danes see political lobbying as a commercial option, and members of parliament were observed attending fashion shows and visiting trade fairs to become aware of the fashion identity crisis Copenhagen seems to be going through in terms of commercial preposition and trade fair identity.
Gallery is working on it’s portfolio to include more clients, and winning significant Danish label Bruuns Bazaar to exhibit again was a good move. German-based hot traded label Clarissa Labin exhibited there for the third time, arguing her Scandinavian buyers and clients would come to Copenhagen to order. Danish matador Barbara Gongini was happy with the outcome, as not only did she show at fashion week but also wrote good orders.
Moshroom Showroom’s strategy is to offer a special presentation platform in the right environment for the brands they support, and undertook separate presentations for each client, including Fred Perry, Adidas, Onitsuka Tiger, Berlin’s luxury cosmetic brand Uslu Airlines and Danish favourite WoodWood. “There was a good gathering this season,” states Moshroom manager Amalie Lunøe.
Meanwhile, the Danish textile industry is making a positive development. Eis reported the increase of total exports to 11.4 percent in the last year (2010) compared to 2009, the total sum of 2.9 billion euros. The share of foreign sales to total revenue of the industry grew to a remarkable 93.5 percent, most of which was sold in Germany, the largest export market for Danish manufacturers. 2009 has shown the export increase of 20 percent for Germany alone.
If this remains at the same rate, there would be no need for concern. Only a wish to make the place writing these fantastic orders more focused and profiled.
Natasha Binar | TribaSpace
Representation, Ready-to-Wear, Promotion, Buying, Publishing, Sales
Mercati: Children's, Women's, Men's, Other
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