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Berlin Fashion Week Wrap-up
mercoledì, gen 26, 2011, 09:04 / Berlin, Germany
Berlin fashion week is a reflection of what the city is going through while still searching for its own place on the global fashion map. From a childish belief everything is centered around self to a mature realization the world does not actually care much, one tries to make the best out of own’ existence.
So does Berlin. Any comparison to Milan, Paris, London or New York in the sense of a fashion capital is passé and boring. Berlin is an intriguing mixture between street wear, avant-garde and safe, commercial fashion made in Germany, one of Europe's biggest fashion markets by retail sales volumes. Two leading trade fairs – Premium and Bread and Butter – are opening their doors every season here, in Berlin. And then there are shows at Bebelplatz, the official location, and countless off-site presentations, all together entertaining enough to capture the attention of the media, local celebrities and buyers. (Yes, it is true! We have spotted many).
Fashion and art go hand in hand in Berlin; no surprise the official kick off was celebrated at the RECOLLECTION QUARTETT exhibition featuring Willhelm, Peter Pilotto, Henrik Vibskov and Mikio Sakabe version of Mercedes Young Classics. Fashion Museum of Antwerp and NYC' MoMA have been respected homes for cars turned art objects, so judge for yourself..
A.F.Vandevorst duo started next day and presented their version of urban understated cool. Despite confusing hairdo and repetitive cuts and styles, we liked their down-to-earth collection. Belgian fashion might just be back in fashion in Berlin.
What we saw after that was a proof that the young designers here have gained much confidence and self-esteem and can produce high-quality, wearable and fun pieces. Kaviar Gauche, Lala Berlin, mongrels in common put together a consistent portfolio of made in Germany at its best. In particular, we liked the mongrels in common collection inspired by the Denver series, and the 70s being skillfully transferred into 2012. We went backstage and made a few pictures spotting very busy and charming Julia Freitag, stylist who did wonders at the mongrels show in summer. This time, it got from better to the best.
Frida Weyer earned points for choosing the most relaxed presentational format. Models were simply put on the podium and the press was invited to take pictures of the feminine dresses, skirts and coats in radiant colours. We have a suspicion Frida wanted to do something boringly practical and has created a 365-days wardrobe puzzle for a busy woman. We like!
Natasha has her own personal highlight - Vladimir Karaleev. Nirvana or not, Vladimir has managed to create consistent, thought-through pieces without much of attention-seeking side effects ( live bands, movie premiere and such). Fashion pure.
To be continued next week: lessons we have learned , no-goes and promising designers to watch!
Natasha Binar / Katia Mossina
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Mercati: Other, Women's, Men's
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