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News Fashion Weeks
The Business of London Fashion Week Part III
giovedì, nov 25, 2010, 14:58 / London, United Kingdom
Continued from The Business of London Fashion Week series, we welcome you to the final part of our feature.
The designer duo FELDER FELDER are debuting with their on-schedule show in London tomorrow. However they are not new to the industry: Annette and Daniela Felder first launched their womenswear line whilst studying at the world-renowned Central Saint Martins college. Soon after, they were selected by NEWGEN to showcase their collection during London Fashion Week, and later on, they were invited by IMG to present their work in Berlin. The German born twins established a signature style with their feminine rock and roll aesthetic, which was quickly embraced by singers and actresses, including Rihanna, Gwyneth Paltrow, Florence and the Machine and Allison Mosshart. FELDER FELDER is stocked by Liberty and Browns in London, as well as by high end boutiques in Germany, France, Italy, USA, Russia, Australia and Austria.
The twins tell TribaSpace their views on the business side of LFW and market experience for designers.
TribaSpace: How many seasons have FELDER FELDER been showing at London Fashion Week?
Annette & Daniela Felder: This is our seventh catwalk show. We did our first four seasons in Berlin. Since then we have been showing in London, which is a huge honour for us.
How does London influence your designer philosophy?
I think we chose to live and design in London, because it was primarily a good fit. The vibrancy of the city and the international flair mixed with the eccentric English culture really works for us and for FELDER FELDER.
How difficult was it to raise the capital to start your own collection?
We started very small and just had a small capsule collection in our first seasons. Somebody advised us that it is a good thing to start without money, as if you have nothing. That way you cannot lose anything.
How has the NEWGEN Award benefited your label?
We did not receive financial support, but the attention we got through the NEWGEN exhibition stand was outstanding. It opened so many doors for us, and we are truly thankful that this support scheme exists. In addition to all the press and buyers that we met through the exhibition, the scheme also includes business talks and legal advice, which is very important to us.
How does manufacturing affect your budget?
It is the art of juggling the cash flow, as most productions want to have 40% upfront, which is extremely difficult to pre-finance. Most of our clothes are produced in London, some in Italy and some in India.
How do you describe your management style?
German efficiency with a bit of London punk.
How do you find the balance between creativity and commerciality?
There is a clear difference between the pieces that we want to push commercially and the show pieces. We are very conscious about creating enough pieces that will be commercially successful, as it is a business after all. Once we have done that, we can happily focus on statement pieces which will define the season.
Are you involved in commercial collaborations with any major retail outlets?
We haven’t done a collaboration with any major outlet yet – we would very much welcome it. However we have been involved in other collaborations such as designing the uniforms for the luxury Japanese restaurant NOBU on Berkeley Street, last September.
What advice would you offer young designers looking for finance to start their own collection?
Be reasonable and careful. Don’t let yourself be talked into giving up major shares in the company for investment. As the money can go fast – even in one season, and then you have nothing left.
How do you compare launching a label in London to Europe?
I think it is much easier in London as the BFC has really learned from the failed businesses of a lot of young designers over the last 20 years, and has worked really hard to find ways to support and nurture us.
Is it easier for twins to receive financial backing?
I don’t think so. Business people tend to look at the business itself and judge it from there, don’t they?
FELDER FELDER SS2011 show is scheduled for September 17th, 16:45 hrs at the BFC Show Space. By invitations only!
For press requirements please contact Nazer Bullen felderfelder (at) goodleypr.co.uk, Tel +44 (0)20 7493 9600
Ian Morales | TribaSpace
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